I was headed to California (with my/our 2 girls) to finish off the California Triple Crown (see Anacapa blog) which was only completed by 2 Brits (and under 60 people) before me (see full list here). I had the urge to bookend the holiday with a swim near the start of the trip and noticed that acc. to the MSF database that no Brits had completed a Round-Trip of Angel Island (known as RTAI). Nothing gets me out of bed and training more than a British First attempt! I therefore connected with Erika Gliebe (the Queen of Angel Island with 8x RTAIs to her name) via Dan Simonelli and my old buddy Tom Linthcum (aka Reptile) who is an experienced pilot for the route (and guided me on Lake Tahoe so brilliantly in 2018) plus we had connected in 2022 as he kayaked for me at End Wet so this would be our 3rd rodeo together!
The task at hand....according to the MSF website (here), this swim starts and finishes at the same beach at Aquatic Park (AP) near Fisherman's Wharf in the popular touristy part of San Francisco...it's 'only' ca. 10 miles or 16.1 km but swimmers generally have to face the challenge at night, there's often wind (at least to- and from the island), tides to contend with plus there's marine traffic (at least 2 shipping lanes) and it's open water so wildlife considerations always prey on your mind. All that probably contributes to this swim being part of the Toughest Thirteen swims around the earth as declared by Evan Morrison who first presented the challenge. Before jumping in the water I had one of the toughest thirteen to my name as had done the Fermarn Belt (Germany > Denmark) the summer before (see separate blog).
Map below from MSF site - my swim would be clockwise heading for Point Stuart first:
I had both girls, 24 year old Sophia and 21 (soon to be 22) year old Issy, along for the holiday as apart from 2 swims bookending the break we wanted to take in the magic of Big Sur and what Highway One had to offer. We were all coincidentally at a 'transition' point in our lives. I had been put at risk after 10 years at a bank in the city and considering life as semi-retired after 27 years in the city and 30 years working. Sophia was between jobs and Issy had just finished University (got her grades on the trip and ended up with a 1st class honours degree like her sister!).
We met Reptile and Erika at 23:20 on Sunday 21st with a view to 'jump' at AP at 00:20 in the early hours of Monday 22nd to time the tide (last hour of the outgoing ebb) plus the wind generally abates from the breezes typically found during the day.
Pic taken during the day you can clearly see Alcatraz in the foreground right and Angel Island behind from Aquatic Park opening....(the actual start for my swim was on the same beach but 20m west of the Dolphin Club).
Below is the view of the bay to Aquatic Park from the top of Mount Livermore which we climbed on the Saturday afternoon (get the ferry from Ferry Building - great thing to do before the swim to get your bearings):
Anyway the boat ride from the dock at South Beach Harbor to AP was chilly (San Fran in the summer innit!) and I had totally under-clubbed how cold I would feel prior to jumping off the stern of Reptile's boat 'Ghostrider' just to make the few meters to shore to start the swim. I was also conscious that observer Erika had 8 of these RTAIs to her name so absolutely no pressure! After jumping in I immediately felt warmer (the water was around 60c or 15c) and counted my blessings I wasn't spending the next few hours on the boat. (Erika gave me her reassuring experience that AP was the coldest bit and the section behind the island was warmer so I had that at least to look forward to as I was worried that the bay generally would be colder).
I had split the swim into 6 sections to coincide with 45m feeding intervals. (I had also got the benefit of a day on Angel Island 2 days before getting my bearings and getting a general sense of the whole swim and how the water moved (alarmingly fast down Raccoon strait!))
Section 1 AP to Alcatraz
Section 2 Alcatraz to Point Stuart
Section 3 Point Stuart to Point Campbell (ca. 1/2 way)
Section 4 Point Campbell to Point Blunt
Section 5 Point Blunt to Alcatraz
Section 6 Alcatraz to AP
Anyway, I cleared the water, ensured the green LEDs on my goggles and trunks were working, gave a wave to note I was starting then slid carefully into the water at AP determined just to get to the first feed trying to block all the nerves out of my mind. The wind was still blowing at a reasonably awkward stiff 14mph from the west (so it would be turbulent wind over tide all the way out) and Tom insisted on my being to the left of the boat breathing to my right (which is NOT my preferred option for these swims) as he was conscious that otherwise the boat would be constantly being pushed into me.
Although I was wearing clear goggles I was struggling to see the boat clearly thru the strange foreign chop but hoped that would settle down. The sea state was very lumpy and confused and again was thankful the girls had taken some Kwells sea sickness tablets to keep any green feelings at bay.
After 45 mins we reached just north of Alcatraz and I received my first feed (Highly branched cyclic dextrin made by bulk, complimented with a bit of fructose powder, electrolytes in warm orange squash).
I took a 2 litre thermos so all the girls had to do was to mix hot water (not easy on a small boat that is rocking) with the 2x concentrated pre-mixed solution then offer me the odd salty new potato if conditions allowed (they didn't to- and from the island)
The shot is blury but you can make Alcatraz in the background:
This first feed was the first interaction I had had with a human being for 45 mins and the message from Sophia was clear 'you need to stay with the boat!!'....I replied that I was struggling to see them....This fired me up and post-feed I really got stuck into the waves, wind and chop and to my surprise when we fed at 90mins just south of Point Stuart - I was thrilled in my mind to get here so quickly as that meant a calmer jaunt down Raccoon Strait where I could get my rhythm back and even take on board a salty potato (or 2!) which was impossible to administer in the first 2 feeds given the swell etc.
I knew we had cracked the outgoing leg as Reptile put me to the right of the boat, we rounded Point Stuart and coasted down Raccoon Strait and fed on the north side of the island where the ferry docks at Ayala Cove and I couldn't believe in my head we were almost 1/2 way in just 2 hours 15 mins!!...there just had to be a catch and I wasn't going to declare victory yet!
Pic below: Taking on board a feed and well-earned salty new potato with the relative calmness of Raccoon Strait near Ayala Cove (I did wonder what on earth could be lurking beneath me!):
Anyway we effortlessly rounded Point Campbell and the stretch to Quarry Point on the east of the island and onto Point Blunt which was all heavily sheltered and I promised myself to save some energy and take on a potato for the exposed section back via Alcatraz to AP.
As we exited Point Blunt a couple of enormous shipping vessels bore down on us and we, of course, had to get out of their way (unlike the EC where they seem to be more accommodating of smaller vessels and swimmers!). One of the massive tankers even had an angry face lit up in the bow - I thought I was beginning to lose my mind but Sophia later confirmed I was correct and it was very scary. Anyway luckily there was a break in the shipping traffic after these 2 ships so we could start to make a dash towards Alcatraz but it was also clear the incoming tide was extremely significant and still flooding the bay. We were getting pushed eastwards by it which was running at 3.0 km/h (my normal swim speed). In the lee of Alcatraz, Reptile suggested I swim towards that island but after a period of time it was totally clear I wasn't moving at all but just swimming on the spot - I informed the crew I wasn't getting anywhere and they all just laughed!!
I then reached out to kick and noticed that something resembling a football was hitting my feet (it must have been a seal's head I thought rather than a real football!) and gave it more of a kick and it went away. The thought came into my head of the seal taken by a shark near this spot off Alcatraz a few years prior which I had seen on YouTube (
here) but told myself to get a grip knowing that shark's prefer to feed at dawn or dusk and I might be in the final hour of the swim.
Reptile then suggested we try to head for the Palace of Fine Arts way up to the west of AP but in some respects we had become victims of our own success doing the first half too fast as now were waiting for the tide to abate.
Pic of me 'crabbing' back up to AP - it shows how west I had been dragged with Alcatraz in foreground and Angel Island behind it:
The next thing I knew Reptile said we were headed for the Ghiradelli sign (above AP) but we still didn't make the entrance to AP but instead got dumped at Pier 39 which meant hugging the dock walls to crab our way back up to AP. Slow progress was made but eventually it was clear we would make it.
Pic below: Heading towards the Golden Gate bridge (crabbing up the coast to the wall opening of AP in the distance) - iconic!
Note the track below impacted by tide and crabbing up the bay from Pier 39: NEVER GIVE UP!
Eventually we hit the opening to Aquatic Park (where the boat left me to swim in on my own as there were other swimmers in the venue at 06:00). I really knew then I had cracked this swim and the first British swim of this course which felt truly amazing. We had nailed it! Given I mainly train in fresh water this salt/brackish water felt a good 25% easier. I looked at the boat crew and genuinely thought they had had a tougher night.
Cathy Harrington was awaiting my arrival on the beach to the right of the Dolphin Club and when I exited the water she said to me it was 06:11 in the morning which meant I had cracked this swim in 5 hours 42 which is a time I would have bitten your hand off for beforehand (given the average is around 6 1/2 hours). From Reptile and oberserver below:
I then went back in the water and swam to the opening of AP where Ghostrider was waiting to get into some warm clothes. Cheers all-round and it was then that I realised how cold it had been on the boat with Sophia borderline hypothermic herself.
Never in doubt when you have the A-Team in your corner. From left to right - Tom 'Reptile' Linthicum, Issy Sheridan, Shez, Erika Gliebe (aka The Queen of Angel Island) and Sophia Sheridan.
We then made it back to the boat dock at South Beach Harbor, ordered ourselves a Waymo (driverless taxi) back to our accommodation, followed by a warm shower, breakfast and a sleep followed by a brilliant sushi which sorted us right out!
Various links
My pilot Tom Linthicum (everyone calls him 'Reptile') has his own website and does RTAI's when he isn't at Tahoe in the summer. He's one of my best pals and one of my favourite people to spend time with. He knows this water better than anyone. His website is
here
Erika Gliebe is a marathon swim coach (as well as the Queen of Angel Island). She also has a swim blog which you might find useful in taking on this challenge:
https://greenswimmergirl.com/blog/
Stay at The Suites at Fisherman's Wharf (
here). Our apartment had a kitchen which was great as eating out in San Fran is crazy expensive plus we could then mix drinks etc. It's also just 2 blocks from Aquatic Park (ideal for acclimatisation/recovery swims) and you can walk to the Golden Gate bridge from here if you are feeling adventurous.
Whilst recovering from travel/jet lag head out to Angel Island before the swim (
https://angelisland.com/). Hiking Mount Livermore was a highlight of our 5 days in San Fran
Post swim recovery sushi at Tamago Sushi near Pier 39 is a belter:
here
If you are going to visit Alcatraz, get tickets from the official site (
here) as there's loads of others offering the same thing and taking a cut. I made that mistake and paid $25 more than I should have done for our 3 tickets which was a bit sickening.
After the swim we then headed down to Santa Barbara over 3 days so we could take in whale watching in Monterey Bay, Big Sur and the magic of highway one then closed out the trip swimming the Santa Barbara channel (see Anacapa blog) before the 5 hour drive back to SFO to fly home.